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28.06.2026
HISTORICAL RAMBLINGS
08:18

Where the gods once lived

Improvements to road networks, the development of coastal cities, the rise of mass tourism, and the spread of the seaside vacation model have led to a gradual shift in preferences...
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Improvements to road networks, the development of coastal cities, the rise of mass tourism, and the spread of the seaside vacation model have led to a gradual shift in preferences toward the coast

The concept of summer vacations has changed dramatically over the last century. Today, for most Cypriots, summer is synonymous with the beach. However, a glance at the Cypriot press from 1926 reveals a completely different reality. Back then, the ideal summer destination for Nicosia residents was not the coast, but the mountainous regions of the Troodos. The higher, the better, since, as an editor of the 1926 newspaper Eleftheria pointed out with a touch of irony, on Mount Olympus (of the Troodos Mountains) “the gods once dwelt, and now our demigod rulers dwell,” referring to the practice of Cyprus’s British leadership of traveling en masse to the summit of the Troodos Mountains during the summer months.

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This preference was no accident. In an era without air conditioning, the mountainous regions offered the most precious commodity of the Cypriot summer: coolness. The colonial administration itself played a significant role in their rise to prominence, relocating its headquarters to the Troodos Mountains every summer. The presence of government agencies, officials, and prominent figures lent the resorts prestige and reinforced their reputation as venues for social prominence and high society life. Thus, in addition to being places of recreation, the resorts also served as social gathering spots for the middle and upper classes of the cities.

The summit of the Troodos Mountains, due to a lack of infrastructure, was inaccessible to ordinary Cypriots, but there were options available in the villages of the region. As early as spring, the newspapers were flooded with advertisements for hotels in the mountain resorts. Among the most popular destinations was Pedoulas. In an article in the newspaper Eleftheria dated May 31, 1926, Pedoulas is described as a small town with no shortage of “attractions and beauties.”  There, visitors could breathe in the clean, mountain air, scented with the fragrance of pine trees and roses. The red, delicious cherries, the song of the nightingales, the crystal-clear water, and the invigorating coolness that whetted the appetite all complemented the idyllic landscape, which was on par with that of comparable European resorts. With the “Marangos” and “Ilyssia” hotels as the spearhead of its tourism infrastructure, Pedoulas was able to welcome a host of visitors, who were not only Cypriots but also English, Egyptians, Syrians, and Armenians.

The picture of 1926 stands in stark contrast to today’s reality. In fact, 1926 might even be considered a turning point…An urban legend has it that in that year, for the first time, a group of Nicosians organized a sea excursion led by the then-young lawyer and later District Judge and Appellate Judge Zannettides. Gradually, and especially after the 1960s, the changes were dramatic. Improvements to the road networks, the development of coastal towns, the rise of mass tourism, and the spread of the seaside vacation model led to a gradual shift in preferences toward the coast. Various economic and social factors contributed to this, which, among other things, reshaped what is considered acceptable and desirable. A telling example is the radical change in the portrayal of the naked body, which until the middle of the last century was unthinkable for many, whereas today, showing it off—especially if it’s tanned—is a sign of high status.

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Mountain resorts have lost some of their former glamour, although they continue to offer unique comparative advantages: natural surroundings, authenticity, cultural heritage, and a climate that remains ideal during the summer months. Reading old articles reminds us that these villages have untapped potential that can be transformed into valuable resources for the future if harnessed in new ways. Supporting and revitalizing mountain resorts is an investment in the sustainable development of the Cypriot countryside that deserves to be brought back to the forefront.

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