From ancient times to the present day, bread has held a special place on the Cypriot table. It is not merely a part of the diet but an integral part of Cypriot social life. Bread accompanied every meal, in every everyday and every significant moment of their lives.
Many regions of Cyprus had their own bread and their own distinctive toppings.
Athienou bread continues to make history. Its recipe and artistry are passed down from generation to generation, with all of Athienou’s bakers today seeking its registration as a Protected Geographical Indication product.
A bread made with just four ingredients has gained pan-Cypriot and international fame as the most iconic example of Cypriot baking.
ΣΧΕΤΙΚΑ ΑΡΘΡΑ
“What sets traditional Athienitiko bread apart is its flour—it’s mainly durum wheat flour, made from the finest Cypriot wheat. The sourdough starter we use is made with holy water that we collect on September 14 from the church where we celebrate the Feast of the Holy Cross. We use the holy water the first time we make the new sourdough starter. After that, we don’t need to add holy water again; we refresh the starter every time we use it for our bread or for communion—that is, we add flour and water to nourish the starter.”
Paraskevi Loulis, Baker – Pastry Chef
After kneading the ingredients by hand or in a mixer, a special technique is required to give the dough its distinctive shape.
“We’ve kneaded it, but now we need to shape it into a round form. We mold it as is, so we end up with a nice, pliable dough. So, we sprinkle a little flour so it doesn’t stick, and we place it upside down, either in a basket or, traditionally, on a wooden board. Let it rest for about 2.5–3 hours, or even 4 hours, depending on the season. It takes time for the dough to rise and mature due to the sourdough starter. Then we put it in the oven—that is, we flip it over once it’s risen—and then score it all around with a knife to give it its characteristic shape.”
Its interior also differs from other traditional Cypriot breads, as it stands out for its thick, crispy crust and its flavor.
“What sets Athenian bread apart is its crumb structure; it’s denser with smaller air pockets inside, and its aroma carries the tang of the sourdough starter it contains.”
About 100 years ago, the reputation of Athenian bread spread throughout Cyprus. The first organized bread merchants in Nicosia were Athenians. One of them was Paraskevi Loulis’s great-grandfather.
“Because there was such a demand for the bread, they began supplying it outside of Athienou as well. Back when housewives were still baking at home, as soon as they realized how convenient it was to buy it ready-made and warm, they began selling it outside of Athienou.”
It weighed more than the bread sold by other merchants, and this caused problems with the English scales. An Athenian loaf weighed between 1,100 and 1,500 grams, while the other loaves weighed one kilogram.
“There was a time when bread was in short supply because a decree had been issued stating that bread in Cyprus had to weigh no more than one kilogram.”
Kyriakos Kareklas, Mayor of Athienou
It took the path to Europe
The bread producers of Athienou joined forces and, with the support of the municipality, submitted an application to have it registered as a Protected Geographical Indication product.
“It has been sent to the European Commission; now another process will follow. The first stage is complete; now we’re moving on to the second. We’re already with the European Commission, which will conduct its own evaluation, it will review the files, and the decision will ultimately be published—we hope in the Official Journal of the European Union—to allow for any objections, and we hope that in the near future we will receive approval, so that these two products can be registered as products with a geographical indication, known as “PGI.”
Kyriakos Kareklas, Mayor of Athenou
The mayor of Athienou emphasizes that the benefits of this registration will be manifold for the town, as it will highlight the quality of the bread and bring it greater renown.
“Let me just say that while reviewing our application, we saw that this product—bread— has been made in Athenou since ancient times; in fact, on a ceramic vessel found in a museum in Belgium—a woman from Athenou who discovered the vessel outside Athenou is depicted making bread and preparing them to bake them.”
Kyriakos Kareklas, Mayor of Athienou
The Ministry of Agriculture has submitted to the European Commission an application for the official registration of “Athienou Wedding Loukoumi” as a Protected Geographical Indication product.
